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Provincetown :: Wednesday, February 8th 2012

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Notes from Land's End: Sept. 11

Racing on the High Seas


September 12th, 2009

The Sperry Top-Sider Challenge for the Fisherman’s Cup happened on a day with absolutely no wind. At 8:00 AM, the seas were so calm that they were like glass in the morning light. Aboard the Roseway for the adventure, this on deck reporter talked with passengers as we waited for the kickoff of the Great Provincetown Schooner Regatta and Yacht Race.

At some point in a day more about gazing at the ocean and catching some rays than racing, Andrew Kaiser, Chief Mate, says that he never focuses on the destination, in sailing as in life, but kept the crew alert and ready for anything.

Kate Liebhold, Free Spirit, had always wanted to arrive in Provincetown by water. The Challenge was her chance to fulfill that dream. Escaping city life, Sassy Adventurer Ray Mallas had the primal urge to get off land and get a big dose of ocean. Island Girl Chandra Henderson, from the Roseway’s winter port St. Croix, was on for the thrill of the race.

At 10 AM, with wind a distant hope, we started the motor and crept along at 5 knots. Captain Dwight Decklemann stayed in touch with Challenge headquarters for a consensus. As the sails stood still, we studied the boat and learned about schooners. Originally designed for commercial fishing, the men would race the boats for sport.

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120 feet from stern to bowsprit, the 84 year old Roseway was used to pilot vessels safely into Boston Harbor. With her glorious tanbark sails, the stunner is well maintained with an earnest crew. Today these vessels, coined Tall Ships, are non profit enterprises that host educational programs, sunset sails and participate in events like our Regatta.

At some point in a day more about gazing at the ocean and catching some rays than racing, Andrew Kaiser, Chief Mate, says that he never focuses on the destination, in sailing as in life, but kept the crew alert and ready for anything. That was when he saw the whales come from the ratlines. Pods of them were around us during the tide change where Swarthy Fisherman Jacques Macara says that the pull of the tide on Stellwagen Bank was stronger than our attempt at sailing with 2.7 knots. There they were, with a playful show of whale high fives, diving deep with a swish of the tail, in groups of three the norm and couples two by two.

First Class winner Alabama, 90 foot built in 1926 is part of the Black Dog Fleet and a sleek one. All girl and proud of it Unicorn got second place. Measuring 118 feet and launched in 1947, their crew also reveled in the spectacular whale event and will port this winter in Gloucester.

The forces of nature may determine the speed of a race but the temperament of true sailors, making the best of any circumstance, made the Fisherman’s Cup a memorable event.

Laura Shabott, artistic bon vivant, loves living in Provincetown and writing about it.

Provincetown Schooner Race
World Ocean School
Back Dog Tall Ships
Sister Under Sail
Sperry Topsider







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